Lima as Seen by an Expat

In many ways Lima is the same as any other major city, rush hour is a stand still, the prices are high, there are tourists attractions and business districts and if a woman walks down the road in a skirt she will be whistled at by the local builders.
Nothing unusual or new in any of that, and so when people from home ask ‘are there shops, offices, restaurants, highways, public transport? I reply ‘yes’, they then fail to understand why I can’t describe Lima as anything like London, New York or Sydney.
The fact of the matter is, that although Lima seems to possess the same structure and mold as its metropolitan counterparts it is in a category of its own.

Every day thousands of people flock to work in offices around the city, mainly San Isidro and the surrounding area. They board a bus or drive a car and set off for a destination time and place.
However, the public transport is a stand still of aggressive drivers and passengers, an unregulated, nonsensical mass of combis, buses and taxis all moving as individual entities with no further concern than their own pushy, forceful and albeit dangerous progression through the early day grid lock.
You would expect perhaps a subway or a train, i’m not asking for the squeaky cleanliness of the Singapore underground or the regularity of the London tube but a system that doesn’t depend on honking horns, running red lights or swerving lanes.
Lima has the ‘Metropolitano’, a bus system that quite frankly is excellent at the side of alternative options. Like an oyster card you top up as you go and pay two soles for a trip, scanning your plastic as you enter through a turn style. It is cramped at peek hours but it is fast and effective, running in a private lane and stopping at every assigned station along the way.
The alternative is an over head train that runs above street level.
The problem with these options is that they are not city wide, they are not flexible in terms of direction and you may have to walk a while to find your nearest station. These forms of transport only run in certain places, and so you’re usually left with the public bus or a taxi, both rather terrifying at first.

 

Avenida Reducto on a “good” day

Another common aspect of Limeon life is the ‘manana will do’ attitude, contrary to the rush on the roads, else where the pace of life is some what different.
There is no urgency in supermarket queues or restaurants and you may have finished your meal before your dining partners have received theirs.
If you’re in a hurry, I don’t advise eating out and even ordering a coffee can be quite a process, with the barista taking several orders before beginning any.
Don’t expect your starters to come first and your seconds to come second, and definitely don’t expect your drinks to arrive before either. It’s a lucky dip, just take what you’re given when it’s given and if you’re the person left waiting suck it up and get used to it. You’re in Lima now.
Something that I found most unusual was the ‘constant state of emergency’ here, that is to say the interesting use of the flashing, blue, Police lights. I have been brought up to react when I see police lights in my rear view mirror, to make room, pull over and to assume there is an emergency somewhere near by.
However, if you see a police car with its lights flashing, don’t worry, Peruvian police lights don’t come with an off switch. Perhaps the Police think it is polite to allow the public fair warning of their presence, as it also the case in other South American countries.
If the ‘Policia’ markings aren’t sufficient, anyone participating in criminal activity is allowed the extra heads up of the flashing lights around here.
Referring to the earlier ‘manana will do’ theory i now draw attention to a personal pet peeve of mine: time keeping and punctuality. A concept as foreign to Lima as i am. As someone who has had the importance of being on time, respecting people’s time and so on, drilled into them growing up i can never get my head around the relaxed attitude to appointments in this city.
15 minutes late is basically on time and half an hour late isn’t really a big deal. Perhaps this easy going approach is less stressful, more achievable and socially accepted but i can’t help but be miffed when there are things to be getting on with.
Being on time in Lima would be as bizarre as England without tea or America without McDonald’s and it is helpful to accept the synonimity of Lima and being ‘tarde’ and get on with it, you run the risk of looking like a moody foreigner if you complain about it too often.
As a foreigner in Lima it is advisable to keep your wits about you at all times, pick pocketing, robberies and scams are rife and common sense is a necessity. Don’t stumble home alone at 4am, don’t wave your iPhone about on the street and always check your money.
The latter might seem like the advice of someone overly cautious and suspicious but don’t be trusting when dealing with paper bills here, fraudulent currency is common and unless you are careful you will more than likely find yourself trying to pass off a fake note somewhere down the line. Check for the line down the middle of your note, and the subtly different coloured number next to the 20/50/100 mark in the corner of the bill.
A routine that I know from experience is exercised among tourists and expats is particularly popular with taxi drivers. They will call you over and ask for an exchange of their small notes for your large ones. This is an appealing concept if you’re new or unaware, as shops and sellers dislike taking your large bills. However if it seems like an unusual offer it probably is, my advice: don’t swap money with locals or other foreigners without thoroughly checking what you are receiving first. Although there is a constant game of ‘hot potato’ going on with false currency it is no fun to be embarrassed at the supermarket check out trying to buy a bottle of wine with nothing more than an extravagant piece of paper.

Spot the fake

There are some quirks of Lima life that are just a bit of fun, for example; using a coin to tap on the Bodega door after closing time if you fancy another beer, the police would use their knuckles you see. Or the presence of pan pipes, singers and make shift percussionists on the local bus to provide accompaniment at rush hour.
Life in Lima for an expat can be a challenge, an uphill struggle and generally quite confusing but it’s a lively city with a range of districts and you will never get bored, the food and drink is excellent and varied and whether it’s a show, a market or a political party drive, there is always something to see.
Accept the city for what it is, bustling, unorganised, and a mixed bag of tricks and don’t let the oddities get to you. Despite the hotels, office blocks and shopping malls this isn’t London or New York, it’s best to take it as it comes and be open minded otherwise you might just spend a good portion of your time irritated and bemused.

The Limeño Bus, Safety Not Guaranteed

A typical morning scene at a paradero in Lima, Peru.

You are waiting at a bus stop around 7:30am on your morning commute. Busses and cars whiz by on the street, honking at each other like a flock of geese. It has been 3 minutes and 6 busses have passed, yet none are yours. You know your bus route uses a white and blue combi-bus, and now you see what potentially is your bus approaching. The bus isn’t driving on the inside lane, but at least it’s heading your way. You can tell it’s in a hurry, since the driver is laying on the horn at a taxi picking up a passenger. If you hadn’t seen the bus initially, you certainly hear it by now. You aren’t sure if this is your bus route, as the route number and barrio destination are poorly handwritten over the windshield. To be safe, you flag down the bus anyways. The bus driver spots you, and swerves over two lanes of traffic before slamming on the breaks in order to stop at the paradero, though he still overshoots by about 20 feet. Once the bus is alongside you, the destinations painted on the side of the bus are easier to read. ‘Aviacion, Salaverry, Tdo Arequipa..’ Nope, this isn’t your bus. Back to the curb you go, along with the other people waiting for their ride.
Suddenly, while reading the painted text you see a flash in the corner of your eye. Moving even faster than the previous bus, a second bus is weaving down the road, lane markers be dammed. This maverick driver sees a lone person at the paradero, standing next to a stopped bus, and moves on. Without the slightest pause, the correct bus driver speeds by you. Standing at the paradero you feel like an ugly duckling, not selected to join the gang.
Congratulations, you will now be late for work.

Ask anyone living in Lima what they dislike about their city, and, among other responses, you will often hear complaints about the public transportation system. The public transportation system in Lima, frankly, sucks. Gridlock, lack of a single transport organizational body, and a fleet of sadistic bus drivers collude to form a chaotic, bordering on dangerous, public transportation system.

Coming from the US, where busses and routes are highly regulated, it’s a shock to see Limeño drivers in action. Flagging down a bus doesn’t always mean that the bus will stop. Safe tailgate distance isn’t a thing. Limeño bus drivers answer to no man nor street sign. When they see an open lane, they snatch it up, regardless of impending passengers. Once passengers are on board, there is no guarantee they will be allowed to exit the bus within a block of their intended stop. Passengers will shout “Baja! Baja!” at the bus driver as he cruises past their paradero. When viewing the Limeño driver one has to wonder if they are perhaps paid, not by the hour, but instead by their route laps completed. A challenge made exponentially more difficult during rush hour.

Between the hours of 6 and 8:30pm, the Limeño bus is a battle ground. Each passenger takes responsibility of their own safe passage, as balance and elbow room will be challenged during these primal hours. Workers on their commute home, sweaty and tired from a day at the office, are in no mood to give up standing room to accommodate fellow passengers. A step on your foot and a nudge to the gut are to be expected on the rush hour Limeño busses. The fare collector on the bus wishes to pack as many people a possible onto his vehicle, giving no mind to actual standing room. Once on the bus, a passenger enters an aggressive arena.

So what are we to do? When we are forced to ride busses commanded by sociopaths with selective blindness, what should be our MO? Well, for starters, never be in a hurry to arrive anywhere in Lima. Although the bus drivers will break speed limits, challenge red lights and sometimes completely skip a paradero, traffic still flows with the speed of cold syrup. Secondly, be an aggressive passenger. Keep your center of gravity low and your elbows pointed tenaciously. Drivers aren’t opposed to taking corners on two wheels so be ready to lean into a curve. In rush hour, when the busses are packed like an overweight suitcase, be prepared to fight your way to the exit. No one gives it to you, you have to take it.

How to Run a Great Guesthouse

When my girlfriend and I first arrived in Lima we needed affordable accommodation during our apartment hunt. A brief search on hostelbookers led us to the Happy Up Here Guesthouse (HH). The reviews were positive, and the price was right, so we booked a room at HH. We didn’t know at the time, but we had stumbled upon the friendliest guesthouse/hostel in Lima. We give the title ‘Friendliest Guesthouse in Lima’ to HH not only because of its style, location, and value, but also because of the wonderful woman who runs the place.
Ana Maria Alarcon Gutierrez owns and operates HH, and has since 2011. To call Ana friendly is an understatement. Ana is a prime embodiment of hospitality. Along with her dog, Paco, she has created an atmosphere that gives travelers a sense of staying with an old relative, rather than at a hostel. Sitting on a sofa in the HH common room and chatting with Ana reminded us less of introductions with a new acquaintance, and more of catching up with family.
Ana left such a lasting impression on us, that we decided she needed a piece here in YoungPat Perú. Recently I returned to HH in order to interview Ana, and learn her secret for running a great hostel.

Ana, with her dog, Paco

HH opened in 2010, in the neighborhood of San Borja. Ana assumed responsibility of HH in 2011. Originally, Ana’s son and his girlfriend opened and ran the hostel, however the two pursued other work opportunities abroad after one year. Since the hostel is located directly over Ana’s house, it made sense for her to take over. Ana and her dog Paco, live on the first two floors, while HH occupies the third and top floor of the same building. Ana is never far from the common room, which she cherishes.
Ana describes a typical day as a hostel owner as such;

“I wake up early and get breakfast ready for all the guests. Everybody has breakfast and then they go out into the city to explore. I clean up the rooms and common area, make sure everything is tidy. So in the middle of the day I am here for people just arriving to the hostel, or to help out when guests have any problems. Then the rest of the day I like to be around the hostel and chat with my guests.”

These guests tend to primarily come from Europe, and North America. The timing of the seasons also affects guest trends at HH.

“There is no most common nationality, we see them all. French, English, American, Canadians, and Asians, a lot, you know? Our summer to your summer is many Europeans and Asians. From autumn to winter in the north I have Americans, Canadians, and, well, Asians all year round. From South America, I don’t have many guests. Chile, Colombia, and some from Argentina.”

With so many nationalities temporarily calling HH home, most owners could be tempted to stereotype, perhaps even develop a tendency for guest ‘genres’. However, HH has remained open and embracing of any guest. At HH no guest is too odd, too strange or too difficult. Ana’s only preference is extroverts over introverts, mostly so she has a conversation partner. When asked to recall a bizarre or funny story about running a hostel, she struggled to come up with a response. It’s as if her patience and sense of family prevented her from seeing any guests as unusual. All guests at HH are part of a judgement-free family. Quirks, atypical behavior, and personality differences are what Ana loves about running a guesthouse. In our interview, Ana chose ‘Family’ as the best word to describe HH.

“It’s family. I think it’s familial because it’s close. From the table through the living room to the kitchen, everybody can talk. I really love to be with, and talk to everybody here. It’s not like you are my son, I don’t feel like the guests are my children, but it’s similar to a maternal sense. I want to have a nice home.”

Friendships forged on the road while traveling are inevitable, and the trend is no different at HH. When asked, one of Ana’s fondest memories of managing a hostel came when she helped a young woman break out of her comfort zone. A young American woman had been staying at HH for nearly a week without leaving her bunk bed, other than for the bathroom and kitchen. Remaining in bed for days on end is worrisome behavior for anyone. At other hostels, this lonesome behavior would be disregarded, but not at HH. Ana wanted a plan to get this woman upright and social, after all, she was staying at HH. During her check-in this young woman had briefly mentioned enjoying a day at a beach several weeks prior. Using this tip, Ana called on a local friend with a beach house in Lima to take a few HH guests to his residence for a day trip, the reclusive lady included. Luckily, the woman agreed, joining three other HH guests for a day trip to a beach house. Sure enough, after a day with fellow travelers and beach lovers, the young woman escaped her bed, and her comfort zone. In the following weeks, the woman explored Lima with her new friends, and even continued traveling north into Ecuador with her pals.

“The best part of running a hostel is being able to talk with many people from around the world, having a place with a strong family feel, helping travelers with questions about Lima, and just having conversations about myself or others”

So what is her secret? What makes HH not only a great place to stay, but also encourages a website to interview the owner? Projecting a sense of family is important, but Ana says patience is the most important aspect.

“Well you have to be patient, I think that’s most important. Not often, but sometimes some people will test your patience. I feel lucky that I have only ever had three difficult guests.”

Let Ana and HH serve as a lesson for anyone interested in opening a guesthouse or hostel. The trick for customer satisfaction isn’t always the most stylish decor, the most high tech rooms and common areas, or even the best bar specials. Patience and a communal spirit are prerequisites for a successful guesthouse.

See a photo gallery of Happy Up Here Guesthouse

Lima’s Bug Problem

 

Cities are remembered for their landmarks, their food, their people, and even their most visible automobiles. One vehicle can serve as the international symbol, the mechanical mascot, of a city. The Vespa scooter conjures images of Rome, in New York City we see the ever-present yellow cabs, in London the black cabs, and in Bangkok it’s the tuk-tuk. Lima, Perú can be represented by the Volkswagen Beetle, or Bug, found on nearly every street.

The Volkswagen Beetle (original, type 1) is one of the most popular, or at least most conspicuous, vehicles on the road in Lima. The most widely produced car in the world was last produced in 2003, but you wouldn’t know it living in Lima. Here the German-created car is ubiquitous.

The Beetle was originally deigned in the 1930s to be an affordable, reliable family vehicle to be driven on the early Autobahn. German engineers wanted an efficient vehicle and looked to nature for inspiration in finding aerodynamic shapes. The humble beetle, of which there are myriad variants, became their muse; curved and compact. Thus, a hardworking, popular, easily-customized car was born. Not only suitable for Bavarian countryside drives, the Beetle was perfectly at home amongst the crowded avenidas and calles of Lima. An adaptable little Bug, indeed.

Long lasting is perhaps the best adjective bestowed upon the Beetles of Lima. Though some Bugs show the typical signs of aging, rusted bumpers, foggy headlamps, and torn seat covers, others are as slick and peppy as the day they rolled off the the assembly line. Those industrious assembly lines cranking out now-Peruvian Bugs were most likely situated in Brazil, the largest Beetle-producing country of South America. Up until the mid nineteen nineties Brazil sent thousands of Beetles to Perú, giving a stylish, alternative crowd a capable vehicle for the Limeon traffic.

Traffic in Lima moves more like a competition than a cooperation. Each vehicle acts as an animal, aggressively fighting off larger predators (busses or trucks) or giving chase to smaller prey (pedestrians or motorbikes). Roads don’t guarantee consistency, fairness or punctuality. Getting on a bus, hiring a taxi, or even driving yourself is a roll of the fuzzy, rearview-mirror dice. However, what at first appears as chaos has its way of self-governing. No vehicle wishes to harm it’s own self by smacking into another. Though cars and busses play constant battle on the roads, collisions are rare. Like turbulent water rushing through rapids, the flow of vehicles spastically takes people from A to B, though there may be some detours to visit F and U along the ride. The law of the road in Lima is akin to the law of nature. No wonder that one of the most durable creatures in nature gave namesake to one of the most durable vehicles in Lima, the Beetle. A spunky insect of a car that can thrive almost anywhere.

On your next day out around, or trip to, Lima see how many Beetles you notice. Try to spot one in each of the primary colors, a task actually accomplishable in a single day. It won’t take long to catch the ‘Bug of Lima’.